We are based in North Branford, Connecticut, and we serve residential and commercial clients throughout the state of Connecticut. This includes New Haven County, Fairfield County, Middlesex County, etc. We do not travel outside CT. Our team is local, so we understand the New England climate and building practices. For a specific town or neighborhood, feel free to call us – we very likely work in your area or a nearby city.

Yes. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete is fully registered with the state of Connecticut and carries the required contractor licenses. We also carry comprehensive liability insurance and worker’s compensation insurance. You can have peace of mind knowing that our work is backed by insurance. If you need our license or insurance details for a permit application, just let us know.

Our team has decades of combined experience, especially in Connecticut’s stone, brick, stucco, and concrete work. We pride ourselves on quality craftsmanship, fair pricing, and excellent customer service. Every project – whether a small crack repair or a large new wall – is handled personally by our skilled masons and technicians. We use high-grade materials and proven techniques that meet or exceed industry standards. Customer satisfaction is very important to us, so we don’t cut corners. Simply put, we combine expertise with local knowledge to ensure your project succeeds.

Yes, we do. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete works with homeowners, HOAs, builders, and business owners. We’ve done projects ranging from single-family home foundation repairs to commercial building facades and retail parking lots. For commercial clients, we can provide necessary documentation, warranties, and work around your schedule. No matter the size, every job gets our full professional attention.

Just contact us – we’re happy to help. You can call our office or use the contact form on our website. We’ll arrange a convenient time to visit your property. During this visit, we will inspect the issue or scope of work, answer your questions, and discuss options. We then provide a written estimate or proposal at no cost. There’s no obligation on your part; the quote is completely free. We encourage readers to call Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete for an on-site estimate and professional advice.

Timelines vary by job type. A small repair like repointing a chimney or patching stucco might take a day or two after scheduling. A new driveway or large masonry wall could take 1–2 weeks. We always discuss estimated timelines when we give the quote. Keep in mind weather and curing times: for example, concrete might need 3 days of curing before being usable. We strive to be as efficient as possible. Often, once work begins, we can complete it quickly, since our crews are experienced. We’ll give you a more precise schedule during the estimate.

Yes. We guarantee our workmanship. For masonry and stucco repairs, we typically offer a 1-year guarantee against defects in our work. For new construction like walls or driveways, we provide warranties as required by local standards. We also only use reputable materials that carry their own manufacturer warranties (for example, sealants or waterproofing products). If any issue arises after completion that’s due to our work, we will address it promptly. Customer satisfaction and quality are our top priorities.

We advise simple periodic checks. For masonry or stucco, look for new cracks or gaps every few years. For concrete, keep it sealed and fill any cracks quickly. Make sure gutters and grading are well-maintained to avoid water damage to masonry. We will provide care instructions specific to your project when it’s finished. And of course, feel free to call us anytime with maintenance questions or if you want a follow-up inspection.

We accept cash or check. Please discuss any payment questions when we meet for your estimate.

Feel free to call or text us at (203) 937-0787 or email us at turcottemasonry@gmail.com and we’ll get right back to you. You can also fill out the form on our website and someone will respond within one business day. We are known for answering questions thoroughly; no query is too small. Once we have your details, we can set up an inspection or discussion at your convenience.

Masonry, stucco, and concrete work require skill, tools, and safety know-how. DIY patching often looks noticeable or fails if the mix isn’t right. For example, incorrectly mixed cement patches can shrink or crack easily. Improper drainage work can worsen a basement leak. Hiring professionals like Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete ensures the job is done correctly and safely. We carry the specialized equipment (mixers, masonry saws, lifts, etc.) and have the experience to avoid common pitfalls. In the end, professional work saves time and money (and frustration) in the long run.

We can assist with the permit process. If your project legally requires a permit (such as certain foundation or chimney work), we will guide you through the local building department requirements. We often submit drawings or descriptions for you and arrange inspections if needed. We want the process to be as smooth as possible, so we stay up-to-date on Connecticut codes and can handle paperwork on your behalf, if requested.

Certainly! We have a portfolio of completed projects (photos of masonry walls, stucco houses, etc.) right here on our website located under the "Photo Gallery" section. We also have a list of satisfied customers who have agreed to give references. Additionally, you can check our online reviews and read about our quality of our work.

We communicate clearly and keep you informed at every step. Before work begins, we provide a detailed scope of work and budget. On-site, we keep the area clean and respect your property. When the job is done, we review the work with you, make any adjustments, and answer any questions. If for any reason you’re not happy, we address it immediately. We believe in building relationships; many of our clients are repeat customers or referrals. We stand by our work, and your satisfaction is the measure of a job well done.

Light demolition involves non-structural teardown work where we remove existing materials like old brick, block, or stucco that are being replaced or reworked. Examples include removing a brick patio, tearing out an old fireplace, breaking up a concrete slab for new pouring, or pulling out non-load-bearing walls. It does not include major structural demolition (like full building teardown). At Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete, our light demolition services allow us to clear the way for new masonry, stucco, or concrete work while controlling dust and debris.

We handle small-scale demolition of masonry and concrete elements. This includes removing brick or stone fireplaces/chimneys, breaking out old concrete steps, cutting and removing sections of foundation wall, tearing out stucco siding, and similar tasks. We also do partial wall removals (non-load-bearing) to make way for new stone/brick surfaces. For safety, we do not remove structural supports or entire roofs. Our crew is skilled in carefully taking down whatever is needed and preserving the surrounding areas.

In Connecticut, minor interior demolition (non-bearing walls, small floors) often does not require a building permit. However, removing any structural element or full sections of foundation/walls usually does. It’s the homeowner’s responsibility to know local codes. As a licensed contractor, Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete is familiar with the regulations. If your project requires a permit (for example, chimney removal or load-bearing wall removal), we can guide you and even handle the application. Rest assured, all our work complies with local and state requirements.

For most masonry or stucco demolition, asbestos or lead is not an issue. Brick, stone, and concrete typically have no hazardous fibers. However, if we encounter materials like old insulation or paint that might contain asbestos or lead, we notify the homeowner immediately. Remediation of hazardous materials is done by certified specialists, as it’s outside our scope. In normal light-demolition projects, we stick to masonry materials. We also follow all safety regulations – our workers wear dust masks and we use misting or containment to minimize dust spread.

There will be some noise – it’s demolition after all – but we use electric saws or low-impact breaking when possible to reduce racket. Dust is minimized by using water to wet down concrete or stucco before cutting or breaking. Our team also lays out plastic sheeting and uses fans when indoors. All demolition areas are cleaned up as the work progresses. We tidy the site each day and run vacuum systems if needed. Our goal is to keep your site as orderly as possible.

It depends on the scope, but it’s usually quick relative to new construction. Removing an old concrete slab or a small wall might take one day or less. A larger removal (say, half a chimney or a large patio) could take a few days. We always plan efficiently: first clear obstacles, then carefully demolish, then haul away debris. For example, breaking and removing a 10×20 patio might only be a day’s work for our crew. Because we coordinate demolition with the new work schedule, it’s usually done just before the new construction begins.

No – we only remove elements that are non-structural or already isolated from the main structure. If part of a load-bearing wall needs to come out, we first support the structure above (with temporary beams or posts) per engineering requirements. We never remove anything that would jeopardize the building’s stability. For example, when removing a fireplace, we leave enough chimney or install proper support. Rest assured, Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete is experienced in demolition so that the remaining structure stays fully sound.

Yes. If you want to preserve the framing or structure, we can chisel off just the brick or stucco. For instance, if you want new siding, we’ll carefully remove the old brick veneer without touching the wall behind. Or if a chimney is being rebuilt, we only take down the damaged brick. This selective demolition minimizes waste and cost. Just tell us what to save and what to remove. We even match locations so the new material lines up with the old foundations or openings.

We do. Debris is collected in containers or bags and hauled away daily. We load out broken concrete, brick, and other materials from the site. After the demo is finished, we sweep, vacuum, and leave the area broom-clean for the next stage of construction. Any dust sheets or protective coverings we used will be removed and disposed of properly. In short, when Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete demoes a feature, we take care of removing the rubble so you’re left with a clean, ready-to-build surface.

Hydrostatic pressure is the force exerted by standing water in the soil around your foundation. Water is heavy, and when the soil becomes waterlogged, that weight presses on the walls​. Gradually the pressure builds and finds any weak spot to relieve itself: through cracks, open joints, basement windows, or porous concrete​. The most common weak point is the joint where wall meets floor, so that’s where many leaks start​. Once the pressure is there, water will seep in unless it’s diverted. That’s why below-floor drains and sump pumps are used to capture and remove it.

The permanent solution is to stop the water before it enters. This usually means installing a perimeter drain (French drain) around the inside edge of the basement floor, which collects water and directs it to a sump pump​. We also coat or seal foundation walls where possible. Improving exterior drainage (gutters, grading away from the house) is important too. In severe cases, we might excavate outside and apply waterproof membranes to the wall. Turcotte Masonry provides both interior drain systems (like WaterGuard and sump pumps) and can coordinate with exterior methods. Our goal is to control the water and pump it out, rather than let it build pressure against the foundation.

A French drain is a gravel-filled trench (with a perforated pipe) installed at or below the footing level around your foundation. It intercepts ground water and directs it away. Inside the basement, a similar concept is the perimeter trench drain that collects water under the floor slab. If your yard or backfill tends to hold water by the foundation (like our CT clay soils do), a French drain is recommended. It prevents the “clay bowl” hydrostatic buildup. We often install interior French-drain systems along with a sump pump for maximum effect. A free inspection can determine if your home would benefit from one.

Yes – in fact, for any effective below-grade drain we always install a sump pump. The pump is placed in a pit (sump basin) at the lowest point. As water collects in the drain pipe or beneath the floor, it flows into the sump. When the water reaches a set level, the pump turns on and pumps the water out and away from the house (outside and downhill)​. Without a sump pump, the collected water would have nowhere to go once it reaches the basement floor level. In CT’s humid climate, even a dry basement can have groundwater seep up, so a pump protects against floods.

Controlling water and humidity is key. If your basement leaks or has damp spots, mold can grow on any organic material. The first step is stopping leaks (via perimeter drains and sump pumps as discussed). Second, dehumidification helps. We often install a dehumidifier (like the SaniDry system) that draws moisture out of the air​. Good airflow (running fans in summer) also helps. Gutters and grading must divert rain away so the foundation stays dry. Once moisture is under control, mold will not thrive. At Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete, we combine waterproofing with dehumidification if finishing a basement, to keep it dry and odor-free​.

Water in window wells is usually caused by clogged drains or improper grading. Make sure the wells have drains that lead to a dry well or the perimeter drain. Check that exterior soil slopes away from the house. Also inspect gutters (they should not dump on the window well). Installing a window well cover can keep rain out. If simple fixes don’t work, we can tie the window well drain into your new interior French drain. In any case, stopping the source (external water) plus providing an outlet (drain/sump) will clear the wells. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can integrate your window wells into our drainage solutions.

Some small fixes you can do (like regrading or sealing minor cracks). However, professional waterproofing often requires digging around the foundation and installing drainage or pumps – which is difficult DIY work. If the leak is serious, it’s best handled by experienced contractors. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete provides a free inspection and quote. We have the equipment (pumps, saws, excavators) and expertise to create a permanent solution. And since Connecticut’s groundwater conditions can be tricky, we custom-design each system. It’s definitely a job where getting a quote is wise.

Once the drainage system is in place, maintenance is minimal. Periodically check that the sump pump runs (pour a bucket of water in to test it) and clean the grate to prevent debris from clogging it. Make sure the pump discharges away from the house. Keep your gutters clean so they don’t overflow. Every few years we recommend a quick inspection to ensure the seals and joints are intact. Otherwise, with the system installed by Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete, you can usually put waterproof worries behind you.

Concrete is a mixture of cement, water, and aggregates (gravel and sand). When water is added to Portland cement, it hydrates and binds the aggregates into a stone-like mass. Unlike cement alone, concrete includes coarse stone aggregate for strength. Concrete can also contain admixtures (like plasticizers or air-entrainers) to improve its properties. At Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete, we use high-quality ready-mix formulations tailored to the project (driveway mix, foundation mix, etc.).

A well-built concrete surface can last for decades. Industry data shows a concrete driveway will last around 20–50 years with proper care​. Regular maintenance (sealing cracks, cleaning, and sealing the surface) can keep it at the high end of that range. In Connecticut, freeze-thaw and road salts are factors, so resealing every few years helps prevent premature spalling​. Many concrete pavements have survived 30–40 years. If deterioration does occur, Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can often patch or resurface rather than replace completely.

Minor cracks in concrete are very common. Concrete shrinks as it dries (cures), and small cracks form to relieve that tension. External factors also contribute. Moisture that penetrates concrete and freezes can expand, causing cracks and spalling​. Settlement of the ground or heavier loads than intended can also create stress cracks​. In most cases, these hairline cracks are normal and not structurally dangerous. We control cracking by inserting contraction (control) joints, but some cracking inevitably happens. We monitor cracks for size and pattern to determine if repair is needed.

You can minimize cracking with proper design and curing. For new pours, we install control joints at the right spacing so concrete cracks in straight lines​. We also use fiber mesh or rebar to hold cracks tight. During curing, keeping the concrete moist and at temperature (especially in dry or cold weather) avoids fast drying cracks​. We can apply a curing compound or wet-curtain to maintain moisture. Sealing the surface with a penetrating concrete sealer prevents water ingress and salt damage, which helps prevent freeze-cracking​. While we can’t stop all cracking, these practices greatly reduce it.

Small cracks can often be filled with concrete caulk or repair mortar. Larger structural cracks might require epoxy injection or a patch with polymer-modified concrete. For horizontal slab joints, we use an appropriate filler or sealant. In our experience, the first step is always to clean out the crack of debris. Then, we apply a suitable repair material – either a cementitious patch or a specialized epoxy. If a slab has settled, we might also use slab jacking (mudjacking) to lift it and refinish the surface. Each crack is addressed based on cause and size. Call us for an inspection if cracks are widening or leaking water.

Spalling is flaking or surface chipping of concrete, often exposing coarse aggregate. It happens when concrete is damaged, usually by freeze-thaw cycles or corrosive chemicals. Water that soaks into concrete can freeze and expand, popping the surface off​. Another cause is corrosion of steel reinforcement from salts – when rebar rusts, it expands and cracks the concrete cover​. To prevent spalling, we recommend using a penetrating sealer on exterior concrete​, ensuring good drainage so water doesn’t pool, and reducing de-icing salt use. High-quality concrete mix and proper curing also make it more resistant. If spalling is present, we can remove the loose concrete and patch it with a polymer-modified material.

Freeze-thaw cycles are hard on concrete: as water penetrates, each freeze expands it, creating internal stress and eventually cracks​. Over time, these repeated cycles cause pitting and flaking. De-icing salts (chlorides) add another problem: they can chemically damage the concrete and accelerate corrosion of any embedded steel​. In Connecticut’s winters, using air-entrained concrete and sealers is critical. We recommend sealing driveways and walkways with a breathable, penetrating sealer to block water and salts​. If you notice spalling or heavy scaling, we can apply treatments or coatings to protect and fill the surface.

Yes, sealing is highly recommended, especially in our climate. A good penetrating (silane or siloxane) sealer will keep out moisture, salts, and stains​. We apply it to driveways, patios, and exposed walls to greatly extend their life. In Connecticut, this prevents water absorption and freeze-thaw damage​. Sealed concrete also resists oil and mildew better. Typically we reseal concrete every 3–5 years, but even a single application can add decades to the slab’s life. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete uses top-rated sealers compatible with concrete’s porosity.

Settlement usually means the base under the slab wasn’t compacted enough or has washed away. Heaving is often from frost – water under the slab freezes and pushes it up. Both can create uneven slabs or cracked joints. Preventively, concrete slabs should have a gravel base and proper slope for drainage. In existing cases, we often use slab leveling (mudjacking or polyurethane injection) to lift sunken slabs and fill voids. For heaving, improving drainage and cutting off water sources is key. On new projects, we always prepare the base to minimize these issues.

Control joints are intentionally placed grooves (often saw-cut) in a concrete slab to create weak points where cracks can form. As concrete cures and shrinks, it will crack; control joints ensure it cracks in a straight, controlled line rather than randomly. ConcreteNetwork notes that control joints should be cut as soon as the concrete can handle it (within hours in hot weather)​. They are typically cut to ¼ the slab depth and spaced at about 2–3 times the slab thickness in feet​. Using control joints greatly reduces unsightly random cracking. We always install control joints in our work (driveways, patios, foundations) per good practice so the concrete does not crack haphazardly.

It can be done with precautions. The ACI cold-weather guide defines cold conditions as air below 40°F. If we pour concrete when temperatures are near or below freezing, we use heaters, insulated blankets, or accelerators to ensure the concrete does not freeze before it sets. Concrete needs to stay above 50–60°F (depending on thickness) during curing​. In practice, Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete schedules pours when we can meet these requirements. With proper planning, we have successfully poured concrete even in late fall or early spring. Just note that the concrete must be kept warm and moist (curing) for several days in such cases​.

During the first week, keep the concrete moist (by misting or covering) to allow proper curing. Keep traffic off it for at least 48–72 hours. After it’s cured, maintain it by sealing as mentioned, cleaning spills promptly, and avoiding de-icing salts (use sand). Fill any new cracks quickly. For garage floors, adding a good epoxy floor finish can protect the surface. Also maintain gutters and grading so water doesn’t wash under or pool on the edges of the slab. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete will give you specific care instructions at the end of each job.

The white powder is efflorescence – same as on brick. It means water in the concrete brought salts to the surface. To clean it, we brush with water; mild vinegar or efflorescence cleaners can help on stubborn deposits. After cleaning, it’s wise to seal the concrete to block moisture ingress. If the efflorescence keeps returning, we investigate leaks or groundwater issues that may be wicking up through the slab.

Stucco is a cement-based plaster used as an exterior finish. It’s made of Portland cement, sand, water, and lime, mixed into a plaster. It’s applied in layers over walls – often a scratch coat, then a brown (leveling) coat, and finally a finish coat​. You can also apply a basecoat with an embedded fiber mesh onto EFIS or cement board, and after proper curing, apply the finish coat. The total thickness is typically ¾″ to 1¼″​. Properly installed stucco is durable, breathable, and resistant to many elements. Today’s stucco can be finished in textures or painted, offering a variety of styles. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete specializes in high-quality stucco application that protects and beautifies Connecticut homes and commercial buildings.

Stucco and siding are very different. Stucco is a cement plaster coating applied wet to the wall, while vinyl or wood/fiber-cement siding are rigid panels attached over the sheathing​. Advantages of stucco include its fire resistance, durability, and unique textured appearance​. A proper stucco finish can last 50–60 years or more. The downside is that in very wet or freezing climates, stucco can crack or deteriorate if not maintained​. Vinyl siding is less expensive and easier to install but must be cleaned regularly and doesn’t have the same mass or fire rating. In Connecticut’s weather, either can be used – stucco provides a classic look and good insulation, but requires maintenance on joints and any cracks to keep water out​. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can help you choose and install the right finish for your home.

Stucco can perform well in CT if installed correctly. However, it does require attention due to our freeze-thaw and rainy conditions. Excess moisture can damage traditional stucco more than in dry climates​, That’s why we use proper weather barriers, flashing, and apply it only when temperatures are above freezing. When maintained (caulking gaps, sealing cracks, and occasionally repainting), stucco will last for decades in our region​. In short, stucco is viable in Connecticut but needs professional installation and care, which Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete provides.

Traditional stucco is a cementitious plaster applied in 2–3 coats directly over a substrate or metal lath. EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System), often called “synthetic stucco,” uses foam insulation board on the wall, covered by fiberglass mesh and finish coats. EIFS offers added insulation value and can handle moisture differently. Generally, EIFS has better flexibility and R-value, making it suitable for cooler/wetter climates; traditional stucco is heavier and can crack if not allowed to dry properly. Both require skilled installation to prevent water issues. We install both systems: traditional stucco for a classic look, and EIFS when clients want extra insulation. Either way, proper sealing and flashing is critical.

Stucco cracks mainly due to movement or moisture. Because stucco is rigid, even small shifts in the building or temperature changes cause cracks to appear. In our climate, moisture penetration followed by freezing is a common culprit: water in the stucco will freeze and expand, causing cracks​. Other causes are shrinkage as it cures, or building settling. Hairline shrinkage cracks (small surface cracks) are normal, but larger cracks should be sealed. Properly filling these cracks and preventing water entry will keep them from growing.

Spalling or delamination (stucco falling off) happens when the stucco loses bond or is damaged by moisture. Common reasons include corrosion of the underlying metal lath, excessive moisture behind the stucco, or improper mix in the original plaster​. When metal lath rusts, it expands and cracks the stucco above it​. Also, if water gets under stucco (for example through a poor seal or flashing), freeze-thaw will literally pop pieces off. That’s why good flashing at windows, control joints, and sealing joints is vital​. If stucco starts to flake off, it should be cut out and the area rebuilt with proper lath and mix. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete inspects any stucco damage and replaces unsound material to prevent future failures​.

Unlike vinyl or wood, stucco typically does not need frequent repainting. However, a painted or sealed stucco surface may be refreshed if the color fades or staining appears. Since stucco can last 50–80 years​, full recoating is only needed when coatings wear out. In Connecticut, this might be every 10–15 years. More often, small spot repairs and caulking occur. If the stucco has mold or stains, cleaning and a fresh coat of breathable exterior acrylic paint (or elastomeric coating) can revitalize it. We generally recommend inspecting painted stucco every few years and touching up any defects.

Homeowners should visually check stucco at least every couple of years​. A professional inspection is recommended every 2–3 years or when you notice any peeling paint, cracks, or water stains​. Small issues like cracked caulk or minor cracks can be caught early. After especially harsh winters or heavy storms, look closely at corners, openings, and horizontal surfaces. At Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete we offer free stucco inspections, and can advise on maintenance to prevent small problems from becoming big leaks.

Caulking around windows, doors, and trim is a key maintenance task for stucco homes. It should be checked annually and replaced as soon as it shows cracks or gaps. In CT, caulking often lasts a few years before drying out. We recommend re-caulking at least every 3–5 years, and after any sign of aging. Promptly sealing these joints prevents water intrusion behind the stucco. After re-caulking, you can paint to match the stucco. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can handle all the caulking around stucco to ensure a waterproof seal.

Stucco is applied in layers over wall lath or a solid surface. First is a scratch coat, then a leveling (brown) coat, then a finish coat that creates the texture. Each layer must dry properly before the next is applied. Typically, a small house might take a few days to a week per color application (with curing time between coats). Total curing to full strength takes about 28 days. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete will schedule stucco work for consecutive fair-weather days in spring or summer to allow uninterrupted drying.

Plaster-based stucco should not be applied on frozen surfaces or when temperatures are below roughly 40°F​. Cold weather can halt the cement hydration process and cause freezing damage. The building codes even require protecting fresh stucco from freezing for at least 24–48 hours after application. Therefore, we usually do stucco installations in late spring through early fall in Connecticut. If your project is urgent in winter, talk to us about the special precautions needed.

Hairline or small cracks can be filled with a quality sanded acrylic caulk. For slightly larger cracks, use a stucco patch mix. The procedure is to back-gouge the crack, apply a compatible patching mortar in layers, then smooth it flush with the wall. After it dries, finish it with matching texture and paint if needed. In humid climates like Connecticut, it’s wise to use an elastomeric coating over repaired areas to seal hairline cracks and allow movement​. For best results, we remove any loose material, moisten the area, and use a patch or caulk designed for stucco. Small stucco repairs are a routine service of Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete, ensuring the fix blends in.

Stucco is porous and can hold dirt and mildew, so occasional cleaning is needed. The safest method is a low-pressure rinse with a garden hose, plus mild detergent if necessary. Gently scrub with a soft brush on stains like mold or mildew​. Do not use high-pressure washers on hard stucco or old stucco, as it can remove the cement binder. After cleaning, we recommend letting it dry fully, then inspecting for any new cracks to seal. If stubborn stains (like efflorescence or paint) are present, a stucco-safe cleaner may be used, but professional advice is best. Our crew can power-wash at safe pressure and treat stains before repainting.

Good stucco maintenance focuses on keeping water out and the surface sound. This means inspecting and fixing cracks or delamination promptly, re-sealing joint caulks, and ensuring trim/details (like windows) are waterproof. Horizontal surfaces (e.g. sills, steps) should be checked for chips or spalls. If the stucco was painted, monitor the coating and repaint every 10–15 years or as needed. Keep gutters and downspouts clean so water drains away from stucco walls. Regularly wash off dirt or mildew. Essentially, prevent moisture buildup on the surface​. These steps will keep your stucco looking good and prevent underlying damage.

Natural (unpainted) stucco does absorb water, so many homeowners paint or seal it for extra protection. A breathable acrylic paint or an elastomeric coating will waterproof and seal hairline cracks, without trapping internal moisture​. We recommend cleaning the stucco first, then applying a quality exterior stucco paint or silicone clear sealer​. Silicone masonry sealers penetrate and repel water while allowing the wall to “breathe.” In essence, sealing painted stucco helps prevent stains and freeze damage. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can apply a paint or clear sealer as part of a repair or repaint job, using elastomeric products that stretch with temperature changes and last about 10 years​

First, we wash the stucco with a mild detergent or a mold-specific cleaner and a soft brush. It’s crucial not to just paint over stains, because they’ll bleed through. After cleaning and rinsing thoroughly, we let it dry completely. Then we prime the area and apply the finish coat or paint. In heavy mold areas, a bleach wash or specialized stucco cleaner may be used. For rust stains (from metal hardware), we remove the rust source or treat the metal, then clean the stain with a masonry cleaner. Finally, we repaint or apply a fresh coat that contains mildewcide. In short, cleaning then repainting is the right approach, and Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete ensures the underlying cause is fixed too.

Yes. Most stucco can be painted with an exterior acrylic stucco paint after a light surface prep. Typically we would clean the stucco, patch any cracks, then use a high-quality paint that can flex with the stucco. Repainting every 10–15 years can refresh the look. Note that dark or bright colors can fade faster in sun, so we choose fade-resistant paint. If your stucco was originally tinted and unpainted, you can still paint over it for a new color. Just ensure the surface is clean and keyed. After repainting, regular touch-ups will maintain that fresh color.

Yes. Solid cement stucco is inherently fire-resistant. In fact, a standard 7/8″ coat of stucco provides roughly a one-hour fire rating​. This means stucco can resist fire penetration better than wood or vinyl siding. That’s one reason it’s popular in fire-prone areas. Of course, we still follow all building codes for fire safety (such as required clearances around fireplaces and chimneys). But generally speaking, a stucco exterior adds to the overall fire safety of a building or home.

A multi-coat stucco system is usually about ¾″ to 1¼″ thick in total​. This is achieved in either 2 or 3 layers (scratch coat, brown coat, finish coat). The exact thickness depends on the system (some one-coat stuccos are thicker). We adhere to the thickness recommended by ASTM or local code for strength. Thicker coats take slightly longer to cure. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete will apply the coats at the manufacturer-recommended thickness so the stucco will have the right bond and durability​

Yes, but it must be done properly. Wood-frame stucco installations use metal lath attached to the sheathing, with a proper weather-resistive barrier underneath. Building codes require a vapor barrier and a scratch coat with metal lath. The International Masonry Institute notes that stucco can be applied to lath over sheathing or CMU​. In practice, we install a WRB (house wrap), then metal lath, then the stucco coats. This way, the stucco itself is always backed by masonry mesh, not bare wood. Our crews ensure that wood studs or sheathing are protected and that the stucco’s moisture can’t reach the wood. In short, yes—stucco over wood is common, but it requires WRB and mesh.

In cold climates like Connecticut, freeze-thaw cycles are the main culprit. Water in the stucco or behind it can freeze and expand, causing cracks or spalls​. Also, rapid temperature swings (hot sun in day, cold night) cause expansion and contraction that create stress cracks. High humidity and rain can encourage mold and staining on stucco’s porous surface​. That’s why maintenance is key: sealing, painting and fixing cracks prevents the moisture cycles that lead to failure. In northern states, better to use acrylic-modified or elastomeric finishes that tolerate some movement​. Our team accounts for Connecticut weather when selecting materials, and we advise more frequent inspection for stucco here than in milder climates.

Properly maintained stucco can last many decades – often 50 to 80 years​. It’s one of the longest-lasting exterior finishes. Key to longevity is keeping it in good repair (filling cracks, recaulking joints, and repainting every so often). Without maintenance, small cracks can let water in and shorten its life. But under a care plan, a well-installed stucco can outlast wood or vinyl siding. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can share more about expected lifespans and will ensure your stucco job is done for the long haul.

Focus on keeping moisture out and allowing any water vapor to escape. This means sealing control joints, caulking around windows/doors, and applying a quality paint or sealer​. We also recommend installing flashing at sills and roof intersections, and using weep screeds at the bottom. If your home has a covered porch or trim, make sure those edges don’t trap water against the stucco. Regular cleaning and periodic elastomeric coatings (every ~10 years) will seal hairline cracks​. Essentially, the best prevention is prompt repair of any crack plus good design to shed water. Our technicians will show you where to seal and how to maintain coatings to protect your stucco from Connecticut’s weather.

Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete handles a full range of brick, stone, block, and chimney work for homes and businesses. We build new features such as retaining walls, outdoor patios and walkways, steps, garden walls, columns, fireplaces, and veneer facades​. We also perform repairs on existing masonry – from tuckpointing mortar joints to rebuilding damaged brick or stone structures​. Our experts can rebuild or repair chimneys and fireplaces, install stone veneer, and even construct outdoor kitchen features. Our masonry work includes both residential and commercial projects in Connecticut, using quality materials and craftsmanship.

Tuckpointing (also called repointing) is the process of removing deteriorated mortar from between bricks or stones and replacing it with fresh mortar​. Over time, weather and moisture can erode mortar joints, causing gaps and cracks. Tuckpointing restores the structural integrity of the wall and prevents leaks. In Connecticut’s freeze-thaw climate, moisture in weakened mortar freezes and expands, cracking the joints further​. By re-pointing with the proper mortar mix, we stop water infiltration and extend the life of the wall. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete uses mortar that matches the original color and strength, so repaired joints blend in and last.

A good rule is to inspect brick and stone walls every few years for signs of wear. Look for crumbling or hollow mortar when scraped with a tool. In Connecticut's climate, the freeze-thaw cycle repeatedly expands moisture in joints, which can cause mortar to crack and crumble​. Any voids or loose mortar is a cue to repoint. If you can scrape out mortar with a fingernail, it’s deteriorated. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete advises having masonry inspected before the cold season. Prompt tuckpointing when mortar fails will prevent more serious damage.

Mortar joints can fail from several weather-related effects. In Connecticut’s cold winters, water that seeps into tiny cracks freezes and expands, causing mortar to split and erode​. Over many cycles this weakness spreads. Rain and humidity also leach minerals from the mortar and can encourage mold or efflorescence (white salt deposits) on the face​. Direct sun and heat can dry out mortar, making it brittle. These factors mean that routine maintenance is important. Repointing replaces lost mortar, and sealing or protective coatings help prevent moisture penetration​.

White salt stains on masonry are called efflorescence. It happens when moisture moves through brick, stone or concrete, carrying soluble salts to the surface. When the water evaporates, salts remain as a white powder​. This usually indicates excess moisture in the wall or foundation. Common sources are ground water, rain penetration through open joints, or residual salts in the masonry itself. Efflorescence is cosmetic, but it signals that water is moving through the wall.

Because efflorescence is water-soluble, the white deposits can often be washed away with plain water and a stiff brush​. We recommend gently scrubbing the surface with a garden hose and stiff bristle brush until the salts are gone​. If water doesn't seem to work, there are chemicals that will do the job. Avoid high-pressure washing or harsh acids on historic brick. Importantly, any source of recurring moisture should be fixed (like leaking gutters or failing mortar joints) so that new salts do not keep forming on the cleaned surface​.

Prevention centers on controlling moisture. After cleaning the salts, seal or waterproof the masonry (especially foundations) and repair any cracked or missing mortar​. Proper flashing, caulking of joints, and good drainage will stop rainwater from penetrating the wall. Also, keep soil grade below masonry; don’t let splash-up or irrigation wet the wall surfaces. By keeping the brick and stone dry and mortar joints intact, you greatly reduce future salt deposits.

Small cracks in masonry can often be filled with flexible caulk or epoxy masonry filler, but major cracks require professional repair. For a cracked wall or chimney, we would carefully evaluate the cause. Many cracks come from mortar failure or settling, so we perform tuckpointing (removing bad mortar and repointing) to stabilize the wall​. In severe cases, a section of the wall may need partial rebuilding. We always match mortar strength and color to the existing brick. It’s important to fix cracks promptly – water in a crack can freeze and make it worse​. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can inspect cracks and recommend spot repairs or rebuilding to keep the structure sound.

Crumbling or missing mortar joints should be repointed before the damage spreads. We would grind out the loose mortar to a solid base, then apply new mortar that’s compatible with the original​. Properly repointed joints restore strength and prevent water from penetrating. We also take care to match the old mortar’s color and texture so the repair blends in. As noted, Connecticut weather can cause mortar to deteriorate over time​, so scheduled maintenance with repointing is normal for older brick.

Sealing is not always required, but in many cases it helps protect the masonry. A clear breathable sealer can minimize moisture absorption and efflorescence. For example, applying a suitable masonry sealer after repair can help prevent freeze-thaw damage​. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete can apply impregnating sealers that do not alter the appearance. If the brick or stone is in a splash zone or near grade, sealing can increase longevity by stopping water from wicking in. We can evaluate each situation; sometimes proper flashing and maintenance are sufficient, other times a sealer or coating is recommended.

Parging is a thin coat of cement mortar applied to a concrete or block wall surface​. It’s often used on visible foundation walls or chimneys for extra protection and a smooth finish​. For example, an above-grade block foundation may be parged to create a clean surface and to allow a waterproofing paint to adhere. Parging can also be applied to repair badly deteriorated brick walls by covering the old surface with a fresh cement layer. In short, parging strengthens and seals the wall and can improve the look of rough masonry​. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete provides parging to give foundations a neat, water-resistant finish.

Absolutely. Our masonry skills cover everything from decorative paver patios to structural retaining walls and outdoor kitchens and bars. We design and install brick or stone patios and walkways, with custom patterns, colors, and jointing. We also construct retaining walls in segmental block or natural stone to hold back earth and add landscaping features. Fireplaces, fire pits, and columns are also within our scope​. All new work is built on proper footings and to code. In short, if it’s made of brick, block, or stone, we can build or rebuild it.

We handle all common repairs: Tuckpointing (replacing old mortar joints)​; crack repairs in walls or foundations; chimney repairs (repointing or rebuilding); resetting loose bricks or stones; and structural restoration of damaged masonry. For chimneys, we also replace or rebuild flues and caps. We can seal and waterproof walls, install damp-proofing membranes in basements, and install new lintels or support columns if needed. Essentially, any worn or damaged brick/stone work can be restored by our team

Masonry is prized for its durability, beauty, and energy efficiency. A solid brick or stone wall can last for generations when properly maintained​. Masonry naturally resists fire, pests, and rot. It also provides thermal mass that helps insulate a building – keeping interiors cooler in summer and warmer in winter​. Well-built masonry improves curb appeal and adds resale value​. Plus, brick and stone don’t require painting and age gracefully. Turcotte Masonry Stucco & Concrete uses these advantages on every project, ensuring a quality build that stands up to Connecticut’s climate.

Natural stone veneer is real quarried stone cut into thin pieces. It has unique color and texture, and when properly installed it can last indefinitely. Manufactured or cultured stone is a lightweight cast product that mimics the look of natural stone. Manufactured stone is lighter and can be applied to more substrates​. However, it tends to fade over time and generally does not have the longevity of real stone. Natural stone has a genuine variation and is more durable in the long run, whereas quality manufactured stone can still look good and is more budget-friendly upfront​. We can work with either, matching your design and budget.